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Gone were the witches and puppets, the painted dolls and raver goddesses; of their place was a subversive take on Marc Jacob’s 60s monochrome SS13 world, with Chanel-type jackets, a PVC apron central panel over a double-breasted white coat and my personal favourite, a black velvet lengthy gown with white chiffon collar and hem of patterned white lace, excellent for the Russian blogger star, oligarch’s wife and vogue big-spender Ulyana Sergeenko in its poetic romance. If the carpets and wooden hinted at 70s suburbia, there was a subversion on the centre of this assortment, with maroon woollen dresses and extensive pleated skirts, teamed with black PVC T-shirts and sports activities jackets. From a white swing coat, falling open over a chevron patterned black costume, teamed with soft black leather gloves, to Swarovski embellished collars, worn with polo-necked dresses and accessorised with white driving gloves, this was a set excellent for cocktail hour and off-responsibility starlets. The dropped 90s style sleeve (a powerful trend for all of the collections) was in evidence: from a short-sleeved grey coat, teamed with brocade trousers and draped blouse, to an assymetrical hemmed gilt-hued dress, or an embroidered cream and gold cape. One spotlight was by newcomer to London, Turkish designer Zeynep Tosun: Elizabethan fashion leather ruffs, pattern embossed over knee boots, which matched the embroidered sleeves on a slouchy biker jacket, jet beads on black velvet teamed with the sheerest chiffon, fluted pencil skirts and broad legged trousers, all served in a palette of autumnal reds, yellows, browns, black and white.
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